Monday, December 12, 2011
Sables, two ways: Almond Sables and Lemon Sables
As far as I'm concerned, I will never find a cookie with a better texture than these sables. They are ever so slightly crisp, but oh so tender. And have this dynamite sandy feel around the outside. I'm sold: sables win my cookie texture award.
Speaking of winning awards, these cookies also recently won a holiday cookie contest! What sets them apart, on top of their texture, is their simplicity. They are simply flavored butter cookies, which, in a season of sugary-over-the-top-ness, they are a breath of fresh air.
So, if you are in the midst of looking for a holiday cookie that will impress and please, these cookies are for you. Not to mention, you can make these cookies up to three days in advance, pop them in the frig, and slice and bake them at the last minute. Yet another advantage of these sables!
These cookies only have a handful of ingredients, and are a cinch to put together.
Begin by beating the butter. Unlike with other cookies, you don't want the butter to get light and fluffy, you want it to be creamy and velvety.
Next, if you are making the lemon sables, you begin by rubbing the zest of 1 1/2 lemons into granulated.
Then, add the granulated sugar, confectioner's sugar, and salt.
Next, add the egg yolks, one at a time.
After that, time to add the flour. If you are making almond sables,
you will sub out part of the flour for fine ground almonds.
To prevent the flour from going everywhere, drape a kitchen towel over your mixing bowl, and pulse the flour into the dough at the beginning.
Eventually, all of the flour will get mixed in; however, the dough will stick to the sides of the bowl and won't form a coherent ball. But, that's how it should be.
Here's the almond dough.
Spill the dough out onto a work surface and divide it half. Next, and here is a crucial step, wrap the dough in plastic wrap and use the plastic wrap to help you make a log. I tried this without the plastic wrap and it was a complete disaster.
Once this is done, refrigerate it for at least 3 hours, or up to 3 days. When you are ready to baked them, take the logs out and slice them into 1/3 inch disks.
Bake for 17-20 minutes. And let cool on racks.
The flavor really does develop over time, so wait until they are cool, if you can. If not, enjoy one hot and wait to really judge them until they are cool.
And when you do, I think you will find them to be a winner!
Sables (from Baking: From My Home to Yours by Dorie Greenspan)
For lemon sables:
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
zest from 1 1/2 lemons
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup confectioner's sugar, sifted
1/2 tsp salt, preferably fine sea salt
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
2 cup all-purpose flour
Decorating sugar [optional]
Beat the butter, in a large bowl, at medium speed until smooth and very creamy. Working in a small bowl, using your fingers, rub the grated zest of the lemon into the granulated sugar until the sugar is moist and very aromatic, then adds this and the confectioner's sugar and salt to the beaten butter. Beat until well blended, about 1 minute. The mixture should be smooth and velvety, not fluffy and airy. Reduce the mixer speed to low and beat in the egg yolks, again beating until the mixture is homogeneous.
Turn off the mixer. Pour in the flour, drape a kitchen towel over the stand mixer to protect yourself and the counter from flying flour and pulse the mixer at low speed about 5 times, 1-2 seconds each pulse. Take a peek-- if there is still a lot of flour on the surface of the dough, pulse a couple more times; if not, remove the towel. Continuing at low speed, mix for about 30 seconds more, just until the flour disappears into the dough and the dough looks uniformly moist. (If most of the flour is incorporated but you've sitll got some in the bottom of the bowl, use a rubber spatula to work the rest of the flour in). The dough will not clean the sides of the bowl, nor will it come together in a ball-- and it shouldn't. You want to work the dough as little as possible. What you're aiming for is a soft, moist, clumpy, rather than smooth dough. Pinch it, and it will feel a little like play-doh.
Scrape the dough out onto a smooth work surface, gather it into a ball and divide it in half. Shape each piece into a smooth log about 9 inches long: it's easier to work on a piece of plastic wrap and use the plastic to help form the log. Wrap the logs well and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, preferably longer. The dough can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months.
Getting ready to bake:
Center a rack in the oven and preheat to 350. Line two baking sheets with parchment.
Remove the log of dough from the refrigerator, unwrap it and place it on a piece of parchment. [Optional for decorating the outside] Whisk an egg yolk until smooth, and brush some of the yolk all over the sides-- this is the glue, then sprinkle the entire surface of teh log with decorating sugar.
Trim the ends of the roll if they're ragged, and slice the log into 1/3 inch thick cookies (You can make them as thick as 1/2 inch, but no thinner than 1/4 inch). Place the rounds on the baking sheets, leaving an inch of space between them.
Bake one sheet at a time for 17-20 minutes, rotating the baking sheet at the midway point. When properly baked, the cookies will be light brown on the bottom, lightly golden around the edges and pale on top; they may feel tender when you touch the top gently, and that's fine. Remove from the oven and let the cookies rest a minute or two before carefully lifting them onto a rack with a wide metal spatula to cool to room temperature.
Repeat with the remaining log of dough.
For Almond Sables:
The same as above, except omit the lemon zest and reduce the flour to 1 1/2 cups, and add 1/2 cup finely ground almonds (or pecans or hazlenuts or walnuts) to the mixture after you have added the sugars. If you'd like, instead of sprinkling the logs with sugar, sprinkle them with finely chopped almonds or a mix of almonds and sugar.