Corn, the classy way: Corn Vichyssoise

 
 Let's be honest.  Nothing beats corn on the cob. 

But, let's also be honest.  It is hard to look classy when eating corn on the cob. 

Enter this elegant and simple corn vichyssoise.  Vichyssoise is a take on the tradition French potato-leek soup and is often served cold (though it tastes just as good warm). 













But, with the addition of corn and omission of cream in this recipe, it is perfectly light, perfectly summer. 

(Also, I love the fact that she has you toss the cobs in while the soup cooks to intensify the corn flavor.  It's like you are using corn stock as your base).

This is also a cinch to make.

Start with the corn.

Shuck it.

Cut it off the cob, but retain those cobs!

Next up, the leeks.

Wash them well, then chop them up.

Then peel and chop a potato.
 
Saute the leeks.  Then throw it all in the pot.
 
Cook it off.  Remove the cobs.
 
Then blend it up.
 
Now, at this point, if you have the time, press the soup through a fine mesh strainer to remove the chaff.  It really does make the soup exquisite and sheer elegance.  If you are feeling 'rustic' (i.e., a fancy way to say you don't have/want to take the time), don't worry about it. 

Feel free to cool it off or eat it straight away at this point.  But, do add a fresh squeeze of lemon, it brightens it up.  Enjoy this slightly more classy taste of summer. 

Corn Vichyssoise (from Gwyneth P)
Ingredients:
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium leeks, white and light-green parts only, coarsely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
5 ears shucked corn, kernels cut from cobs, cobs reserved
1 cup coarsely chopped peeled potato (about 1 medium)
4 cups good-quality vegetable stock
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup creme fraiche or sour cream (optional)
1 Tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives (optional)

Directions:
Heat oil in large heavy pot over medium heat.  Add leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes.  Add corn kernels, reserved cobs, potato, and stock.  Season with salt and pepper.  Increase heat to high and bring soup to boil.  Reduce heat to simmer, cover with lid slightly ajar, and cook until the vegetables are soft, about 35 minutes.

Discard corn cobs; let soup cool slightly.  Working in batches, puree soup in a blender until very smooth.  Set a fine mesh strainer over a large bowl, strain, discarding solids.  Chill soup until cold [if you want].  If too thick, thin with water by 1/4 cup-fuls.  Stir in lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper.  Spoon a dollop of creme fraiche atop each and serve with a sprinkling of chives.

Butternut Squash Soup with Fennel, Pears, and Spices

I know you may be thinking, what, another butternut squash soup, but this one is different.  This one has fennel.

And pear.

And ginger, cumin, and nutmeg.

And orange zest.

And, although this might seem a bit unusual, it is brilliant (especially, the pear! and the fennel! and the orange zest! oh my!).  But, this is what I've come to expect from and love about Dorie Greenspan.

This is not just another butternut squash soup, this is the butternut squash soup.

One of the keys is roasting the squash before hand.  It takes some time, but, on the plus side, not only do you get a ton of flavor, but peeling a squash after you have roasted it is a cinch.

Once its cool, cut it into 2 inch or so pieces.

While your squash is cooling, saute up some onions.  Then add in your fennel, celery, and garlic.

Next, in with the spices.  Unlike curried squash soups, these spices keep the soup on the sweeter side of things, rather than the savory-er side.

Add your stock.  And once that comes up to a simmer, throw in your pears.  And the orange zest.

Simmer away, gently, for 20ish minutes.

 Blend it up.

And, get ready to enjoy a slightly sweet, surprisingly elegant butternut squash soup.

Spiced Squash, Fennel, and Pear Soup (from Greenspan's Around My French Table: a book you must buy right now)
Ingredients:
About 3 pounds squash, such as Long Island Cheese or Butternut (or 1 1/2 lbs pre-cut)
About 3 Tablespoons of olive oil
Salt
1 large Spanish onion, coarsely chopped
1 spring onion, trimmed and coarsely chopped, or 1 large shallot, coarsely chopped
1 medium fennel bulb, touch core removed, slived
2 celery stalks, trimmed and thinly slices
1 large garlic clove, split, germ removed, and sliced
1 1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
fresh ground pepper
5-6 cups chicken or vegetable broth
2 ripe pears, peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped [I didn't peel them]
2 strips orange or tangerine peel, pith removed
1-2 lemons

Directions:
Preheat oven to 425.  Line baking sheet with foil.

If you're using a whole squash, cut in half, scoop out the innards, and rub the exposed flesh with some olive oil.  Sprinkle the squash with a pinch of salt, put on a baking sheet, and bake 60-75 minutes for a whole squash, 45 for cut.  When you can pierce the flesh easily with the tip of the knife, its done.  As soon as its cool enough to handle, peel it and cut it into 2 inch cubes.

Warm 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a Dutch oven or soup pot over low heat, then stir in onions, Spanish and spring.  Season lightly with salt and cook for 5 minutes, or until the onions start to soften but not color.  Add the fennel, celery, garlic, and a pinch more salt and cook, stirring often, for another 5-10 minutes, or until all the vegetables are soft but still pale.  Stir in the ginger, cumin, nutmeg, 1/4 tsp salt, and a few grinds of black pepper, then add the roasted squash.  Pour in 5 cups broth, increase the heat, and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat so that the soup simmers gently; add the pears and orange peel.  Partially cover the pot and simmer about 20 minutes, or until the pears and squash are soft enough to be mashed with the back of a spoon.

Puree the soup.  Taste for salt and pepper.  If the soup is too thick for you, stir in up to 1 cup more broth and reheat until hot.

Ladle the soup into bowls and finish with a little lemon juice [if you like].

Curried Carrot Soup, or 'What to do when soup sets your mouth on fire'

Be excited: this soup is wonderful. Between the sweetness of the carrots, the warmth of the curry, and the heat of the cayenne, you have something very unusual, very delectable on your hands.

Be warned: if you don't watch your cayenne, you will wind up with something slightly atomic.

Be encouraged: in the event that you make your soup way too hot, there is a cure: milk. Yes, that's right, just a splash of milk tamed this soup, and allowed all of the other, really gorgeous, rich flavors to come through.

Happily, this soup was incredibly easy to make. Start by prepping your carrots.
Then, get some onions going in a Dutch oven with some olive oil.
Add the carrots.
Let that meld together for a bit.
Add in your curry and cayenne.
Add some stock.
Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for about 20 minutes. Then, break out your immersion blender and whaz it all up.
Taste: and if it is so hot, you think you might die, try adding some milk. I also tried orange juice, but I think the milk was more effective. If it is good, serve...
...and enjoy!

Curried Carrot Soup (adapted from foodnetwork.com)
Makes 4-6 servings

Ingredients:
1 Tablespoon olive oil
2 Tablespoons butter
1 1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2 pieces
4 cups (32 oz) low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock
1 1/2 Tablespoons curry powder
1/4-1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper* (I strongly recommend 1/4)
Coarse salt
Chives, cut into 1 inch pieces (optional)**

Directions:
In a Dutch oven, heat oil and butter over medium heat. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, for 5-7 minutes. Add carrots to pot, add some salt,*** and cook for 5 minutes. Add curry, cayenne, and stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer 20 minutes, or until carrots are tender. Puree with an immersion blender. Taste and adjust the seasoning.**** Serve.

*I added 1/2 teaspoon and that made it incredibly hot.
**The recipe also calls for sour cream to add at the end, which just is not my style, but maybe would help with the heat.
***I think adding salt at this layer is important to try and layer the flavors as much as you can.
****If too hot, add a splash of milk. If still too hot, you are in trouble.

Pappa al Pomodoro

The fall is in full swing here in southern California: temperatures are dipping all the way down into the 60s. The 60s!
In other words... it is time for soup!

And, I must say, I started the soup season with a bang: this Pappa al Pomodoro from the Oliver is like comfort in a bowl. I literally had to hold myself back from eating all of it in one sitting.

Pappa al Pomodoro is a traditional tomato-bread soup from Tuscany. Instead of using cream to thicken it, you use day-old bread. This results in a lovely, thick consistency, which you want in the fall; but, you don't have to add cream, which is always a plus for everyday/non-fancy occasion soups.

As ever, the Oliver sticks with basic ingredients: tomatoes, basil, garlic, bread, and water, and makes it magical. The key to the magic this time is roasting some cherry tomatoes with basil and garlic beforehand, and then adding them to the soup.
This gives the soup such depth and really intensifies the tomato-basil flavor.

So, start by pricking some cherry tomatoes.
Then toss them with some basil, garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper.
Roast them until the skins start popping, about 20 minutes.
In the meantime, get some more garlic sauteing in your Dutch oven, with the basil stems, and some olive oil. Who knew you could use basil stems?
Add in a can of whole plum tomatoes.
Then add some water, and bring that to a simmer.
Now, time for the thickener! I used a loaf of Pain Rustique from Trader Joe's, which I had let sit out for 2 days. Tear it into pieces. And, enjoy it.
Time to add the bread to the soup.
Also add in a bunch of basil. And add some salt and pepper, to taste.
Let that all yum up over low heat for about 10 minutes. And then...

Time for those roasted tomatoes!
Just look at how gorgeous this is. You know it is going to be good.

At this point, you just need to adjust the water level to your taste. You want it to be thick, but still silky. I added about 1/2 cup more. But, really just add a bit and taste, until you are satisfied.
Remove it from the heat. Ladle it into your bowl and add some Parmesan cheese and some fresh basil.

Don't you just adore the fall?

Pappa al Pomodoro (from Jamie's Italy)
Ingredients:
1 lb ripe cherry tomatoes
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely sliced
a large bunch of fresh basil, leaves picked, stems finely chopped
the best extra virgin olive oil you can find
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 28 ounce can of plum tomatoes
about 1 lb or 2 large handfuls of stale good-quality bread

Directions:
Prick the cherry tomatoes and toss them on a baking sheet with one sliced clove of garlic and a quarter of the basil leaves. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook them in the oven at 350 for about 20 minutes, until the tomatoes are bursting out of their skins.

Heat a glug of olive oil in a Dutch oven and add the remaining garlic and basil stems. Stir around and gently fry for a minute, until softened. Add your canned tomatoes, then fill the can with water and add that. Break up the tomatoes with a spoon, bring to a boil, and simmer for 15 minutes.

Tear the bread up into thumb-sized pieces and add them to the pan. Mix well and season to taste. Tear in the basil leaves and let the soup sit on a low heat for 10 minutes. Add the roasted tomatoes, basil, garlic, and juices into the pan.

Give the soup a good stir. You're looking to achieve a thick, silky, porridgy texture, so feel free to adjust it with a little water. Then remove it from the heat and add 6 or 7 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Divide between bowls and served with a little extra basil.

Serves 4

For these long wintry nights... Winter Squash Soup

I hate daylight savings time. Mostly because I hate that the sun is setting before 5 o'clock. But, I have decided that this winter the time change is not going to get me down.

Here is my plan:
1. Have a stack of winter squash in my apartment at all times
2. Have the cupboards stocked with stock, onions, and garlic, and the frig stocked with celery, carrots, and cheese (this last ingredient is essential for wintry nights (well, all nights really))
3. Have a stack of recipes for things like 'winter squash soup with Gruyere croutons' ready and waiting (I actually have a list on my frig of recipes that I am going to make)
4. And, finally, have the courage to tackle new ingredients (this time: acorn squash)

So far, so good.

In fact so far, I have made the best soup I have ever made. Ever. This winter squash soup is elegant and gorgeous: perfect for these long nights. And, did I mention that it is accompanied by... Gruyere croutons? These croutons are to die for. They take mere minutes, and they are like heaven.

While the soup ended up pretty as can be, the making of it was... a little rough around the edges.

Like I said, the ingredient new to me in this recipe was acorn squash.
All I knew about it was that it loves brown sugar and that it is hard to peel. But, I thought: could it really be that hard to peel? And then I thought (and, yes, I really thought this): isn't it just like cantaloupe? Don't you just cut it into segments and then slide your knife along the peel, pulling the flesh away?

This is not true. In fact, this is a crazy thought. Peeling acorn squash is nothing like peeling a cantaloupe.

But, after about 30 minutes of butchering the acorn squash, I have found a method that I think is pretty darn good. See what joys winter can bring!

The Samantha-method:
Cut the squash in half.
Deseed it.
Then, use your vegetable peeler to peel as much of the skin off as you can. You won't be able to get between the ridges, but don't worry, I have a solution!
What you are going to do next is cut the squash into segments. But, the key is to cut between those ridges, where the indentation is deepest. That way, all of the remaining skin is right along the edges of the segments.
And you can peel that off no problem.
Voila! A method for peeling acorn squash. (And one that doesn't involve thinking of it like cantaloupe).

And its great, because once you get through peeling the acorn squash, the butternut squash is a walk in the park.
So peel some more squash.
And cut all of your lovely winter squash into 1-inch cubes.
And, at last your squash is prepped! It may be a little challenging, but I promise you it is rewarding.
From here on out, it is just like any other soup. Since it is a French-inspired soup, begin with some delicious butter.
Then saute your onions. And add your garlic in just before the onions are done.
Next, in goes the squash. Be sure to season it.
Add your stock.
Throw in some very French herbs: thyme, first.
Then sage.
Stir that all together and revel in the lovely colors.
Bring it up to a boil, reduce the heat, cover it, and simmer it for 20 minutes. At the end it should look like this.
Next, blend it up.
Return it to the heat and add a little sugar. Don't skip this part! The hint of sweetness makes the soup elegant. Also add in some cream or milk.
Bring that up to a simmer, turn off the heat, and have a taste. This is your chance to think about the flavors, add salt and pepper, and get it just right. (I find this part challenging, but I am getting better. Thinking about the flavors really does help.)
So, the soup is done... but what about those Gruyere croutons? They take about 5 minutes and they are glorious.
Begin by preheating your broiler. Then butter one side of the bread.
Pop those into the broiler for one minute. Once they are golden, pull them out and turn them over. Sprinkle them with Gruyere, thyme, sage, salt, and pepper.
Put them back into the oven for another minute. And you are done.
Just look at them. You know they are going to be good. In fact, they look so good it is hard to resist eating them before you ladle out your soup. But, do try.
They are the perfect accompaniment to this wonderful soup.
Here's to a lovely winter!

Winter Squash Soup with Gruyere Croutons (adapted from epicurious.com)
Ingredients:
1/4 cup butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
43.5 ounces of low-sodium chicken broth (I used stock)
4 cups 1-inch pieces peeled butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)
4 cups 1-inch pieces peeled acorn squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 1/4 tsp minced fresh thyme
1 1/4 tsp minced fresh sage

1/4 cup whipping cream (I used 1% milk)
2 tsp sugar
salt and pepper to taste

For the croutons:
2 tablespoons butter
24 1/4-inch thick baguette bread slices (I used whole grain bread)
1 cup grated Gruyere
1 tsp minced fresh thyme
1 tsp minced fresh sage

Directions:
For the soup:
Melt butter in large pot over medium heat. Add onion and saute until tender, about 10 minutes. Add garlic in right at the end of the 10 minutes. Add broth, squash, and herbs (I added some salt and pepper at this point). Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until squash is very tender, about 20 minutes.

Blend up soup. Stir in cream and sugar; bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper.

Can be made 1 day ahead. Chill. Rewarm over medium heat before serving.

For croutons:
Preheat broiler. Butter 1 side of each bread slice. Arrange bread, buttered side up, on baking sheet. Broil until golden, about 1 minute. Turn over. Sprinkle cheese, then thyme and sage over. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil until cheese melts, about 1 minute. Ladle into bowls. Top each with croutons and serve.