A purist fig preserve

First of all, I realize most of the country is now transitioning to that season called 'fall' where the leaves are turning and your are getting in the mood for apples, pears, and pumpkin baked goods; however, it was 100 degrees where I live yesterday, so the feel of summer is still lingering on.

Which makes this post about fig preseves not seem completely seasonally inappropriate.

Last year, I made Thomas Keller's Fig Jam from Ad Hoc at Home, which was absolutely wonderful: the figs were steeped in balsamic vinegar, there was a sachet of spices added... really a lovely fig jam.  But, a very assertive fig jam.  Perfect for pairing with meats and very strong cheeses, but this year, I wanted to try something a bit softer, that show cased the figs and figs alone.

But, the danger I find with all store-bought fig jams I have ever tried is that they are tooth-achingly sweet.  Figs are already incredibly sweet on their own; why drown out their subtle sweetness with pounds of sugar?  Seriously, the recipes I have been finding for fig preserves call for 2 pounds of sugar for 2 pounds of fig.  I decided, as with almost all other preserve recipes I know, to drastically cut the sugar.  Yes, this means they won't last for years, but isn't that just a reason to make more fig preserves next summer?

For this recipe, I opted for 1 cup of sugar for 2 pounds of figs.  The only other ingredient is a squeeze of lemon juice to try and balance out the sweetness of the figs.  The result is a very subtle, but intensely figgy fig preserve.  Perfect for a cheese board, but also a very pleasant spread for toast or biscuits.  It probably wouldn't pair with meat as well as the Keller jam, but, then again, there are worse things than a pantry stocked with an excess of preserved figs.


To make these, start with ripe figs.  This is actually the hardest part, as figs are only in season in the last summer early fall.
 
Next, quarter the figs.

Put them in a Dutch over, and toss them with 1 cup of sugar.

Let them sit for 30 minutes, until the liquid from the figs has mostly dissolved the sugar.

Next, bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, but stir frequently.
 
Eventually the figs will begin to break down, and gain this lovely, lush deep purple color. 

But, you will need to find a way to get the figs to break down.  Sure, you could cook them for hours and hours... OR, you could break out the 'secret weapon' of canning: the potato masher.

Seriously, by mashing the figs with it (or apples or whatever you want to be broken down in your jam) you will achieve a much better consistency.

Eventually taste the preserves for sugar, and add a squeeze of lemon to cut the sweetness a bit.

After 30 minutes or so (or after it passes the plate test), you are done.  Put the preserves and sterilized jars.

And, you will be able to enjoy that taste of late summer in the seasons to come!
 

Fig Preserves
Ingredients:
2 pounds of ripe figs
1 cup of sugar
1 lemon

Directions:
Quarter the figs.  Put in a Dutch oven with 1 cup of sugar.  Let stand for 30 minutes, until most of the sugar has dissolved.  Bring to a boil, over medium heat.  Stir frequently.  In order to achieve the right consistency, at the end, use a potato masher to mash the figs.  At the end, add a squeeze of lemon, to taste.  Once the right consistency and taste is achieve, put the preserves in sterilized jars.

Makes about 3 1/2 half-pint jars. 

Luscious Fig Balsamic Jam

Even though they look dainty and beautiful, don't be deceived: figs are a very powerful fruit.
Not only do they make you feel elegant and slightly exotic when you eat them, but also they can transform any other food they touch into something sumptuous.

Sadly, figs are around for only a brief time in the grocery stores out here in California (late August-September). Even less out on that other, more east coast. The obvious solution: make fig jam! Better yet: make fig balsamic jam!
I have been wanting to make this fig balsamic jam recipe from Ad Hoc at Home since I got the book in December. Those were 9 very long months. And 9 very long months worth the wait.

This jam is lush, there is no better way to put it.
It has this gorgeous, round, deep sweetness from the figs, but then there are also these whisps of smokiness and ash. Simply luscious!

What do you have balsamic fig jam with, you ask. It is to die for with anything savory, especially with rosemary olive oil bread and any kind of meat. But, as long as it is used in measured quantities, it will take a regular cheese plate and turn it into a gourmet cheese plate. I happen to also like it on plain old toast, and... I'll admit it, simply off a spoon.

It was easy to make. As long as you have some good figs,
you are in business.

Start by chopping up your figs. I quartered them, but next time an even smaller chop would be better.
(Gorgeous!)

In the meantime, since this is a Thomas Keller recipe after all, time for a peppercorn sachet.

You don't really get the peppercorn flavor in the end product, but it helps make your jam have an ever more deep, rich, and complex flavor.

Now, get your figs in a Dutch oven.
Add some sugar.
Next: a crucial ingredient:
I think what takes this jam and turns it lush is the mix of balsamic and fig. They were simply meant to be together.
Stir that all up, and add your sachet.
Simmer it all together, and break up the bigger chunks of fig, but leave smaller chunks. This jam is meant to have some gorgeous, identifiable bits of fig in it.
Cook until your jam can pass the plate test and registers 215-220 degrees.
Once it is done, remove from the heat, remove the sachet, and add a squeeze of lemon to balance out the sweetness.
Get it into jars, process, and you have a secret weapon in your refrigerator and pantry that will turn everything you add it to into gold.
Enjoy being lush!

Fig Balsamic Jam (from Ad Hoc at Home)
2 pounds of figs, preferably Black Mission or Kadota, stems removed and coarsely chopped*
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, tied into a sachet
Fresh lemon juice

Combine the figs, sugar, balsamic vinegar, and sachet into a large sauce pan and attach a candy thermometer to the pan. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and soak, stirring to break up the larger pieces of fig, keeping a chunky consistency, until the jam reaches 215 to 220 degrees.** Remove from the heat.

Remove the sachet and stir in lemon juice to taste. Spoon the jam into a canning jar or other storage container, cover, and let cool to room temperature, the refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Makes 2 1/2 cups.

*This time I quartered them, but I think do a slightly finer chop would be better in the long run.
**I like using the plate test to check for jelling.

To Start: Homemade Fig Jam with Pecorino Romano and Prosciutto

If you will, please take a few moments to imagine the following flavor experience. As you bite into a chewy piece of bread, you immediately taste slightly salty prosciutto, followed by the mellow creaminess of pecorino romano cheese. And then, with the saltiness and creaminess still lingering in your mouth, you taste the luscious, sweet, elegant depth of homemade fig jam.

How could you pass this up?

Now, if confessions are to be made, the inspiration for dried fig jam didn't come out of nowhere. I have become slightly obsessed with dried figs, and it is all thanks to a recent Bicoastal chefs 'trio of figs' tasting (results will be posted soon!). I was amazed to find how delicate, sweet, dainty, and all around delightful figs are. Armed with a new-found love for dried Black Mission Figs, I knew I needed more figs in my life.
And, flipping through my Giada cookbooks, I stumbled across this recipe for fig jam. Given my new culinary inspiration, it seemed perfect. And it was perfect. The jam is amazingly easy, and it is an absolutely delicious way to start a meal.

To make this dish, you need to start by making your simple syrup (equal parts water to sugar).

In a sauce pan, bring the water and sugar to boil, and then reduce to a simmer for 5 minutes. The liquid should be translucent by the time you are done.

In the meantime, toast up some hazelnuts over the stove top (medium heat 8-10 minutes in a dry skillet).
Now, you are going to want to cut up some dried figs.
And pour yourself some brandy. And then pour some more to add to the jam.
(I like E&J VSOP Superior Reserve, you get a lot of quality for an affordable price)

Next, add your figs and brandy to your simple syrup, bring to a boil, remove from heat, and let the figs soak in all that delicious liquid for 10 minutes.
Get out your food processor. Add in the fig mix.
Add in the hazelnuts.
Whiz it all up, until pureed.
And... that's it!! You just made fig jam!
This jam is absolutely perfect with some good bread, pecorino romano cheese, and prosciutto. These ingredients are simply meant to be.
Homemade Fig Jam (adapted from Giada's Kitchen*)
Ingredients:
12 dried figs**
3/4 cup simple syrup*** (recipe to follow, but WARNING! the recipe that follows makes more that you need, be sure to remeasure the right amount after you have made the simple syrup)
1/4 cup brandy
1/2 cup chopped toasted hazelnuts (see note)

Directions:
Combine the figs, simple syrup, and brandy in a small sauce pan. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat, then turn off the heat and set aside for 10 minutes to plump the figs and cool slightly. Transfer the mixture to a food processor. Add the hazelnuts and blend, pulsing until pureed.

Serve alongside pecorino romano cheese and prosciutto.

Note: To toast the nuts, heat them in a small dry skillet over medium heat until they are fragrant and lightly toasted, 8 to 10 minutes. Spread the nuts on a baking sheet to cool completely before using.


*The recipe I include is doubled from the original. It makes a ton of jam, which is delicious on toast.
**The Bicoastal chefs were torn between whether Black Mission figs or Turkish figs are better, but you can't go wrong either way.
***While the recipe would have you put in 1 cup, I thought 1 cup was a bit too sweet, so I reduced it. You could probably reduce the simple syrup more if you wanted.

For the simple syrup:
Ingredients:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water

Directions:
In a saucepan, combine the water and sugar over medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved.