Wednesday, September 9, 2009

An appropriate introduction to my new kitchen: Lemon-Glazed Pound Cake

Meet my new kitchen.

There are things I love about it. For example, everything in it is mine. Dutch Oven: mine. Le Creuset utensil holder: mine. Blue Emile Henry pie dish that is currently holding napkins on top of the frig: mine. The window is also wonderful. Note the basil and rosemary on the window sill.

Then there are things that I am going to have to get used to. For example, there are no markings on my stove-top nobs. There is 'Hi/Lite'; other than that, I am on my own for medium-high heat.

Also, the oven nob is well worn and completely inaccurate. Thank God for my oven thermometer. Even if you have a working nob, get a thermometer. Your nob may look all shiny and new, but it is probably lying to you.

For my first major undertaking in my new kitchen, I thought I would bake a 'thank-you' lemon pound cake for my parents. They helped me move and they were wonderful.

While it may look all pretty wrapped with a bow, there was nothing pretty about making this cake.

Everything started out just fine. I brought my ingredients up to room temperature. Maybe everyone else in the world knows you are supposed to do this, but I only got in this habit last year. I knew it helped ingredients combine, but it wasn't until I was reading my King Arthur Baker's Companion over breakfast (and yes, this is something I actually do), that I learned why. It's all about the butter. You know how you whip butter, often with sugar at the beginning of a cake or cookie recipe? This is because you want to incorporate air into the butter. This air contributes to the light and fluffy quality of the batter and will the cake or cookie rise. You want the eggs and other ingredients to be at the same temperature, to help the butter retain its air. If you add cold eggs to that lovely, fluffy butter, the eggs will actually cause the butter to release the air you just whipped in. Also, it turns out you often whip butter with sugar because the sugar also helps the butter retain air. And I learned all of this over a bowl of cereal.

With my butter and cream cheese at room temperature, it was time to start the cake by whipping them together. Look at how fluffy it was.

Then I zested my organic lemons. If you are using the zest, it is really important to buy organic. 'No pesticides in your cake' seems like a general rule to live by.

Then I added salt,
sugar,
baking powder,

vanilla,

lemon zest,
and flour.I mixed that for 5 minutes. And, yes, I timed it.

I thought everything was going just fine until this Liz Lemon 'what the what' moment:

Yes, that's right: that is lemon zest stuck on my beaters. In fact, it appears the lemon zest did not actually make it into the cake batter because it was too busy glomming to the metal. So, instead of scooping batter off the beaters to put into my mouth, I had to scoop lemon zest off the beater, to incorporate into the batter. I didn't want to overmix, so I folded it back in. Okay, I was back on track. And I figured that the lemon zest would get distributed as I beat the eggs in.

Now, it was time to add the eggs, one at a time. I always crack an egg into a separate bowl before putting it in the batter. For this recipe, you add the eggs one by one, scraping down the sides and bottom after each addition.

After I put the last egg in, I checked the beaters for lemon zest. And, yes, it had somehow magically attracted itself to the beaters yet, again. So I manually pulled it off the beaters. Again. Look at all of it.

After (angrily) stirring that zest in, the batter was ready to go into the pans.

I wanted to use two loaf pans. And only once I was ready to pour the batter in did I realize the recipe called for two 8 1/2 x 4 1/2 inch loaf pans, instead of 9 x 5 pans. Okay, I thought. No problem. I will just reduced the cook time by 5 minutes and everything will be fine.


False.
(look, I was so miffed I couldn't even take a straight picture)

I pulled them out after 30 minutes and they were definitely over done. Not burnt, but, not exactly 'golden'. I hate overbaking cakes. To me, over-baking cake results in that dry-crumbly cake that you buy at bad coffee shops. I kept my fingers crossed that the glaze would help combat the dry-ness.


Not wanting to see my mistake, I decided to flip them over and glaze the side that didn't look dark brown.

This did not help anything.

But, I marched on. As I said, these cakes have a lemon-glaze, which is very easy to make. You heat lemon juice and sugar over low heat, until the sugar dissolves.


(you can tell the sugar is dissolved when the mixture gets translucent like this)

When it was time to drizzle the glaze, I aggressively poked holes all over the cake. I enjoyed this part, in no small part due to the frustration over the over-baking. And, I was at first worried about making too many holes, but then I realized, more holes equals more moisture in the cake. So, I threw caution to the wind and poked holes all over the 'top'.


I needed to figure out how to best divided the glaze in two. I decided to take a 1/4 cup measure with a spout and start glazing each cake with a 1/4 cup. Once that had soaked in, I simply divded what little remained of the glaze evenly over the two cakes.
The glaze really does look lovely spilling over the sides.

But then, the glaze decided to pool around the edges of the cakes. So, with my fingers, I redistributed the glaze over the non-pool-ish parts. A brush may have been a better way to go.

And then they were done.


I waited a few hours until the glaze had set in, and braced myself for the worst.

But, I should have braced myself for delicious. The cake turned out just fine. The lemon flavor from the wily zest and glaze was just right. The cream cheese was a marvelous addition. It lent the cake a bit of tang, creaminess, and moisture. And, believe it or not, the cake wasn't dry at all. Instead, it was moist, not-too dense, and a pleasure to eat.

My first undertaking was not exactly flawless, but I suppose this kitchen is one of 'learning'. Consider me schooled:
Lesson #1: make sure you have the pans called for in the recipe. If you don't, maybe do some research on baking directions for the pan size you do have. For these cakes, I think I could have poured all the batter into one 9x5 loaf pan and baked it for about 45 minutes. If I wanted to do the two loaf pans, I probably should have decreased the baking time more, or even reduced the temperature to 325. Then again, I could just buy the right size loaf pans.

Lesson #2: Beware the lemon zest. I still am baffled by what happened with the zest. Is it magnetic? Regardless, in the future, I will be careful to inspect my beaters for zest and make sure all that flavor gets into the cake and not washed away in the sink. Next time, I might try tossing the zest with the flour and hope that the flour coating prevents the zest from becoming one with the beater.

Lesson #3: If you make the bottom of the cake the top of the cake, glaze will pool around the edges. To avoid this, I will try brushing the glaze on. Alternatively, perhaps I should just not make make the bottom of the cake the top.

Lesson #4: Making the bottom of the cake the top doesn't actually undo the fact that you over-baked the cake.

Lesson #5: Sometimes when you over-bake a cake, it can still come out moist. Don't lose hope. And if it does come out dry: why not top it with a scoop of ice cream or a quick raspberry sauce. Come on now!

Lesson #6: Disasters sometimes end up in scrumptious lemon pound cake. So, as Julia Child says, "be fearless"!

Lemon-Glazed Pound Cake (from The King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion)
Ingredients:
14 tablespoons butter
1 package cream cheese
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 tsp baking powder
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 Tablespoon lemon zest
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
5 eggs

For the glaze:
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup sugar

Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 and grease two 8 1/2 x 4 1/2-inch loaf pans or a 9- to 10- cup bundt pan [I used two 9 x 5 inch loaf pans].

In a medium bowl, beat together the butter and cream cheese until soft and fluffy. Add the salt, sugar, baking powder, vanilla, lemon, and flour. Beat for 5 minutes; the batter will be stiff.

Add 1 egg, beating well until combined. Continue to add the eggs one at a time, beating well and scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl after each addition.

When done, the batter will be very fluffy. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan(s).

Bake the cake for 55-60 minutes (for the bundt pan) or 35-40 minutes (for the two loaf pans), or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clear. [I baked my larger loaf pans for 30 minutes and this caused the cake to be over-baked. Next time, if i used those pans again, I might check after 20 or 25 minutes].

For the glaze, just before the cake is done, combine the lemon juice and sugar and heat over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Don't let the mixture boil.

Remove the cake from the oven and let it cool for 10 minutes in the pan. Turn it out onto a wire rack or serving plate. Poke the top all over with a cake tester or tooth pick and gradually drizzle the glaze over it, pausing occasionally to let it sink in. Let the cake cool for several hours before slicing.

Friday, September 4, 2009

The 'Wow': Spiced Candied Walnuts

I love when something is so good you are compelled to the following sorts of reactions:
-"Wow"
-"Oh my God"
-"this is /so/ good"
-"mmm"
-eyes lighting up
-eyes closed
-ecstasy visibly crossing your face
-the inability to stop consuming what is in front of you

And, it is always surprising to me when I make something that forces people in these directions. Not because I am shocked that I could make anything tasty. It is more that I completely lack the ability to anticipate what items will win this sort of approval. Take these candied walnuts, par example.

Look, they are delicious. They are candied walnuts after all. And they are a superior version of candied walnuts. Often, when you get candied walnuts on a salad in a restaurant, it is more like a clump of powdered sugar with something on the inside that might possibly be a walnut. The coating on these walnuts is light, just enough to caramelize and get a little crunchy in the oven, but never approaching gob-like consistency. Another great feature of these walnuts is all the flavor. Each bite has some sweet, some salt, some pepper, and just a hint of spice from cayenne.

So, I get it, these are tasty morsels. But for whatever reason, these walnuts are one of those things that just make people, time and again, say "wow" as they reach for more.

Bonus: they are so very easy to make.

For the coating, mix sugar, salt, black pepper, cayenne, and light corn syrup.

Toss the walnuts in the mix.

Spread on a sheet and put them in the oven.

Remove from the oven, cool, and brace yourself for the 'wow'.

I especially like these walnuts on a salad with mixed greens, Anjour pear, and Gorgonzola. But, they are great as an appetizer or as a dessert. I promise you, if you leave these in a bowl, they will rapidly disappear just about any time of the day.

Spiced Candied Walnuts (adapted from Epicurious)
Ingredients:
1 Tablespoon sugar
a little less than 1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp fresh ground black pepper
a generous pinch of cayenne (and if you compulsively measure like me, about 1/8 tsp)
2 Tablespoons light corn syrup
1 cup walnuts (I prefer walnut halves)

Directions:
Preheat oven to 325. Spray sheet with Pam or cover with parchment paper.

Combine sugar, salt, pepper, cayenne, and corn syrup in a medium bowl. Stir in walnuts. Once walnuts are coated, spread on a baking sheet (some nuts may clump). Stir occasionally and bake about 15 minutes, until nuts are deep golden and mix is bubbling. Let cool on sheet.

Can be made three days ahead.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Quinoa Tabbouleh

Quinoa is one of my favorite grains, mainly due to its fluffy (yet slightly crunchy) consistency , nutty flavor, and fantastic nutritional value. As a vegetarian, I'm always on the lookout for good protein soures. Quinoa has a 12%–18% protein content (compared to ~7% in rice) and has a full set of amino acids. And of course it's full of fiber and a good source of phosphorus, magnesium and iron. Awesome, no? And did I mention it only takes like 15 minutes to cook?
(Thanks, wikipedia, for all those factoids)

So getting on with this recipe: Quinoa Tabbouleh makes for a colorful, light, nutritious, and simple summer meal. I adapted the recipe below from The Kitchn.

Ingredients

1 cup dry quinoa
1 red onion
1 pint cherry tomatoes
2 cloves garlic
1 bunch flat-leaved parsley (about 3 cups, but I'm never very precise)
8 ounces feta
2 ears fresh corn
1/4 cup good extra-virgin olive oil
Juice from 1 lemon (+extra to taste)
salt and pepper to taste

When cooking à l'Emmanuelle, assembly details don't matter so much. So my instructions for this recipe? Cook the quinoa, the rest of the ingredients are raw (yes, even the corn, try it). Cut everything up, add a mixture of lemon juice and olive oil, and toss. Salt and pepper to taste.

You can explore with different ingredients. Try adding mint or basil, cucumber, maybe even some fresh fruit? I added corn to this recipe and thought it added a delightful sweetness to it.


With the entire salad assembled and tossed, the longer you let it sit, the more the flavors evolve and fuse together. I love making a large batch then eating it for lunch all week.

Enjoy!

Friday, August 21, 2009

What a difference cinnamon makes: Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies


A mini-celebration was in order this Wednesday. In my philosophy PhD program, we have to write a 'qualifying paper' and get a committee to sign off on it. Once this step is accomplished, we are ready to go on to the dissertation phase. On Wednesday, my paper, which includes a foot note thanking Emmanuelle for her help with a translation of French, passed. Clearly, something delicious needed to happen. I decided to bake these oatmeal-chocolate chip cookies.

The key ingredient in these cookies was cinnamon. I followed the Joy of Cooking recipe, but I added some cinnamon to give the cookies the spice of an oatmeal raisin cookie. And what a difference the cinnamon made! It infused the cookies with a warmth that was just delightful. So, lesson learned: when making oatmeal-chocolate chip cookies, don't skip on the cinnamon!

Oatmeal-Chocolate Chip Cookies (adapted from Joy of Cooking)
About forty-eight 3-inch cookies

Ingredients:
1 3/4 cup flour
3/4 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 cup (2 sticks) of butter at room temperature
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 cup packed brown sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 1/2 tsp vanilla
1 cup chocolate chips
3 1/2 cups old fashioned rolled oats
3/4 cup chopped pecans or walnuts (optional)

Directions:
Preheat oven to 350. Grease or line 2 cookie sheets. Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. In a different bowl, beat butter, sugar, brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla until well combined. Stir in flour mixture. Stir in chocolate chips and oats.

Shape the dough into general 1 1/2 inch balls, and place about 2 inches apart on baking sheets. Flatten into 1/2 inch disks. Bake 1 sheet at a time, for 12-14 minutes. Let stand briefly and remove to a wire rack.

Note: baking for 13 minutes was just right.

Breakfast REmaKE













This is what I like to eat for breakfast. Every day. Who said breakfast had to be sweet, anyway?

Ingredients:

Sesame Ezekiel Bread
Whipped Cream Cheese & herbs*
Cucumber
Cracked Pepper
Sea Salt

*to make whipped cream cheese, add 1 T milk to a brick of cream cheese, cut up some herbs (chives, dill, basil- in this photo I've used rosemary) and whip with a hand beater. So simple! So delicious!

Thursday, August 20, 2009

More fun with the box of squash: Zucchini, Squash, and Basil Soup

As I mentioned in my last post, I recently received a box full of squash and zucchini in the mail courtesy of my father and his garden. I used some of it for a squash, mushroom, marinara penne. I used some more of it for zucchini cupcakes. And I still had about 2 pounds left, i.e. the perfect amount for a soup. To be specific: zucchini, squash, and basil soup.

But, how did I know I had 2 pounds left? Well, I think it is about time you meet my new favorite kitchen acquisition: the scale.

Over the past few months, I keep on having these moments where I wish I had a scale. How many onions equal 2 1/2 pounds? Is this the right amount of crystallized ginger? How much is one serving of penne (I always cook way too much pasta)? And the questions proliferate from here. So I finally decided to buckle down and buy a scale. And I love it! Within the first two days of receiving it in the mail, I used it three times for cooking purposes (and probably 5 or 6 times just for fun). It is one of those purchases that I am going to use all the time and a year from now I will probably think, how ever did I manage without my scale?

Back to the soup. Since I had squash, zucchini, and onion from my father's garden and loads of basil on my porch, I decided to make a zucchini, squash, and basil soup. I was tempted to throw in some tomatoes or potatoes, but in the end I decided I wanted something a bit more 'pure'. And I am so glad I decided to keep it simple. The flavors were elegant, but well-rounded. The color was just beautiful! And it was so easy to make.

As you know, there was Colorado-grown squash and zucchini. And thanks to my kitchen scale, I knew that I had 2 lbs and 2 ounces. Also, since a couple of the squash were bigger, I went ahead and seeded them to try and avoid any bitterness.


My father also included a yellow, white, and red onion in the parcel. So those made it in. And let me tell you, they were so fresh I though I would never stop crying!


Beyond the squash and onion, most of the flavor for this recipe came from 2 ingredients: garlic and basil.


To prepare the soup, saute the onions.

Then add the garlic just before the onions are done. Even when recipes say to add the onions and garlic at the same time, I think that the garlic inevitable burns if you do this. So I have taken to adding the garlic right at the end of the onion-saute step.


Next, pile in the zucchini and squash. And flavor it with salt and pepper.
(How lovely is this color combination?)

Once that gets tender, you add the stock. Bring it to a simmer and simmer for 15 minutes or so.

Add in the basil and let the basil infuse the soup for a couple minutes.

Remove from heat, puree, and you are ready to go!

I garnished it with some small basil leaves and a generous amount of freshly grated parmesan.

Zucchini, Squash, and Basil Soup (adapted from epicurious)

Ingredients:
2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion (I used 3 small)
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 lbs zucchini and sqaush, halved length-wise and thinly sliced
1 tsp salt (plus pinches for seasoning each layer)
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper (plus pinches for seasoning each layer)
3 cups low-sodium chicken stock
1/2 cup julienned basil

Directions:
Heat butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and saute until onion is transluscent, about 7 minutes. Add garlic and saute for 1 minute. Add zucchini, squash, salt, and pepper. Saute for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add 3 cups stock, bring to a boil, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer, partially covered, for 15 minutes or until the squash is tender. Stir in basil and let that simmer for another minute. Remove from heat and puree. Season to taste.